Author: StephenH
Subject: ouR escaPOD mods
Posted: 22 Apr 2016 at 12:15pm
Here is another one that my wife and I really like. Our 2016 Rpod 179 had the older, top mount plastic sink. This is one of the reasons I term it more of a 2015 1/2 model. We both disliked the plastic, both for the size and in my case, because it was flexible and not flat, which meant that water collected in the bottom and did not properly drain. The solution was to replace the sink and, while I was at it, replace the cheap faucet with one that is much better.
Parts:
VAPSINT faucet. The exact one I purchased does not seem to be available currently. This one is similar: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MT6YDU?psc=1
Stainless steel sink: http://www.amazon.com/Elkay-D117193-17-Inch-Stainless-Three-Hole/dp/B0012C2R4W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Sink strainer: http://www.amazon.com/Franke-4010856-Stainless-Strainer-Nickel/dp/B00FQ59W8U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
Flexible tailpiece: http://www.lowes.com/pd_24605-143-9121K_0__?productId=1070063
Silicone sealant.
Tools were a jigsaw and an oscillating tool http://www.harborfreight.com/Variable-Speed-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-61219.htm Also needed if large tubes of sealant are used is a caulking gun. Masking tape is needed to protect the countertop. Remove the drawers both to keep them clean and to make more working room available. It will also help with fastening the sink and hooking up the components.
First step is to remove both the original faucet and the original sink. I put bags over the ends of the water lines to keep trash out. I disconnected the drain also. Once the sink was removed, I cleaned off the old sealant. Then I used masking tape (wider is better) to tape over the whole sink area.
Lay the sink upside-down on the counter to mark the location. The actual cut line will be inside the outline of the sink. There is just enough room between the cleat which is at the face of the cabinet and the one on the back wall of the Rpod to fit the sink. When cutting, ensure the cut line is parallel to the outline and that the corners are rounded to match the outline. You should be able to verify the location since you will be able to see the cleats through the opening.
Use a jigsaw with a clean-cut blade to cut on your cutting line. I needed to use the oscillating tool with a semicircular blade to get the cut along the back wall since there was insufficient room for the jigsaw there. I also used the oscillating tool to trim the hole as I cut a little small along the front and back, figuring it was better to do this than to cut too big at first. Test fit the sink. Once you are happy with the fit, then it is time to move on to the next step.
Install the sink strainer. I used silicone instead of plumber's putty for this. I have had good success with silicone, figuring it would not harden or fall out like I have seen plumber's putty do. Allow some time for the silicone to cure.
Install the faucet. Since this sink has three holes, I used the middle one for the faucet, the left one for a soap dispenser, and plugged the right hole with a cover plate. I could have used a cover plate which would have covered the extra holes also. This is optional.
Once the faucet is installed, lay down a bed of sealant and place the sink into position. Use the clamps to fasten the sink to the countertop. Clean off any excess sealant. It is easiest to do so before it cures.
Connect the hot and cold water connections. You will need adapters since the existing connectors will not be the same size as the new faucet's connectors. Pick these up at your local hardware store.
The P trap will not line up with the new drain. This is where the flexible tailpiece comes in. Use it to connect the drain to the trap and move it around to allow room for the drawers to open and close. I needed to saw an arc in the back of the top drawer to allow it to close as the new drain is centered, and not at the back like the old sink had.
Test your connections, clean up the mess, reinstall the drawers, and it is done. Enjoy the new sink.
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The one think we do when traveling is to move the head of the hose down and just let the spring part be held by the bracket. This keeps the spring from banging into the window. There is not much clearance between them, but it is so much better than the original, cheap faucet.
Subject: ouR escaPOD mods
Posted: 22 Apr 2016 at 12:15pm
Here is another one that my wife and I really like. Our 2016 Rpod 179 had the older, top mount plastic sink. This is one of the reasons I term it more of a 2015 1/2 model. We both disliked the plastic, both for the size and in my case, because it was flexible and not flat, which meant that water collected in the bottom and did not properly drain. The solution was to replace the sink and, while I was at it, replace the cheap faucet with one that is much better.
Parts:
VAPSINT faucet. The exact one I purchased does not seem to be available currently. This one is similar: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MT6YDU?psc=1
Stainless steel sink: http://www.amazon.com/Elkay-D117193-17-Inch-Stainless-Three-Hole/dp/B0012C2R4W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00
Sink strainer: http://www.amazon.com/Franke-4010856-Stainless-Strainer-Nickel/dp/B00FQ59W8U?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01
Flexible tailpiece: http://www.lowes.com/pd_24605-143-9121K_0__?productId=1070063
Silicone sealant.
Tools were a jigsaw and an oscillating tool http://www.harborfreight.com/Variable-Speed-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-61219.htm Also needed if large tubes of sealant are used is a caulking gun. Masking tape is needed to protect the countertop. Remove the drawers both to keep them clean and to make more working room available. It will also help with fastening the sink and hooking up the components.
First step is to remove both the original faucet and the original sink. I put bags over the ends of the water lines to keep trash out. I disconnected the drain also. Once the sink was removed, I cleaned off the old sealant. Then I used masking tape (wider is better) to tape over the whole sink area.
Lay the sink upside-down on the counter to mark the location. The actual cut line will be inside the outline of the sink. There is just enough room between the cleat which is at the face of the cabinet and the one on the back wall of the Rpod to fit the sink. When cutting, ensure the cut line is parallel to the outline and that the corners are rounded to match the outline. You should be able to verify the location since you will be able to see the cleats through the opening.
Use a jigsaw with a clean-cut blade to cut on your cutting line. I needed to use the oscillating tool with a semicircular blade to get the cut along the back wall since there was insufficient room for the jigsaw there. I also used the oscillating tool to trim the hole as I cut a little small along the front and back, figuring it was better to do this than to cut too big at first. Test fit the sink. Once you are happy with the fit, then it is time to move on to the next step.
Install the sink strainer. I used silicone instead of plumber's putty for this. I have had good success with silicone, figuring it would not harden or fall out like I have seen plumber's putty do. Allow some time for the silicone to cure.
Install the faucet. Since this sink has three holes, I used the middle one for the faucet, the left one for a soap dispenser, and plugged the right hole with a cover plate. I could have used a cover plate which would have covered the extra holes also. This is optional.
Once the faucet is installed, lay down a bed of sealant and place the sink into position. Use the clamps to fasten the sink to the countertop. Clean off any excess sealant. It is easiest to do so before it cures.
Connect the hot and cold water connections. You will need adapters since the existing connectors will not be the same size as the new faucet's connectors. Pick these up at your local hardware store.
The P trap will not line up with the new drain. This is where the flexible tailpiece comes in. Use it to connect the drain to the trap and move it around to allow room for the drawers to open and close. I needed to saw an arc in the back of the top drawer to allow it to close as the new drain is centered, and not at the back like the old sink had.
Test your connections, clean up the mess, reinstall the drawers, and it is done. Enjoy the new sink.
The one think we do when traveling is to move the head of the hose down and just let the spring part be held by the bracket. This keeps the spring from banging into the window. There is not much clearance between them, but it is so much better than the original, cheap faucet.